A Visit to Sobhanachalam
Introduction:
The Trip:
Meanwhile, I decided to visit the temple on the top of the hill. I was told that temple is closed but can still see the deity through the iron grill door. It was a trek of approximately, 600 steps. Most of the steps had weeds growing through them indicating that not many people are walking over them. I wanted to be back before it gets too dark.
Multiple families of monkeys sprawled themselves on the steps and were relaxing and grooming. I was scared and ensured not to make eye contact. There were multiple small temples on the side of the steps in dilapidated state. I did not dare go into them though.
I huffed and puffed through the trek with multiple breaks. It probably took 30-40min. I was disheartened to see the dilapidated state of the temple on the top. The copper covering of Dwajasthamba was slightly peeled at the bottom exposing rotting wood inside. There was lot of graffiti and name carving on the walls of temple. There was some strange smell indicating lack of care. I peeped through the iron grill and paid my respects to the deities. Took some pictures of town from top.
There is a Sivalayam after another 100 step trek. I did not go there as it was getting darker. As I did my trek down, Monkeys did not even care to step out of the way. I just went around and did my best not to make eye contact. Couple of naughty ones did growl at me. By the time I returned to base, I was drenched in sweat. I guess, the monkey scare and sultry weather did not help either.
The temple at the bottom of the hill was open by that time with no visitors. I paid my respects to main deity Vyagra Lakshmi Narasimha and other deities: Venugopala Swamy, Goda devi, Rajarajeswari devi. As I left the temple, A monkey entered the temple to steal a coconut while the priest shooed it away and closed the door.
Politics and Funds:
Later on, during discussion with family members, someone enlightened me. Historically, After the fall of Kings and Kingdoms, Temple ownership and care was done by a Zamindar (Zamindari - A land revenue collection system instituted by British). After British left, Indian political class has taken over. Most of the historical temples own several lands. It is not individual ownership. Think of it as an “institution” owning lands. Apparently, the lease on the lands of temple are auctioned off every year or few years for cultivation. Money from auction is deposited back to government and temple does not have any say on how the funds are utilized. Most of the time, the people who participate in auction form a nexus, sort of mafia, and do not let others to compete in. They ensure the auction is done for a paltry sum of money. I even got a figure of Rs. 75 ($1) for 1 acre of fisheries. For comparison, 1 acre of fisheries can probably produces few lakhs of income and a minimum Rs. 1 lakh ($1500) of annual profit. [Note: Take the numbers with a pinch of salt.]
The huge sums of money made from the temple lands is diverted for personal use and political clout. Next time, do notice that if some one is on a board of a temple and if they have political power. It will give you some insight. This could also explain why people in government would like strangle hold on Hindu temples.
Conclusion:
The word “Shobanachalam” is quite popular in and around Agiripalli. I saw a cloth store in Vijayawada with that name. There is a blog by Venkata Ramana who hails from Agiripalli, http://Sobhanaachala.blogspot.com.
Next time you see the word “Shobanachalam” or “Sobhan babu” spare a thought to temple and town that have, definitely, seen better times.
A trivia question. Do you know the real name of a Telugu movie actor “Sobhan babu”? If you guessed, “Sobhanachalapathi Rao”, then you are correct. He is named after a deity on a Hill, “Sobhanachalam”, in Krishna District of Andhra Pradesh.
Etymology:
Etymology:
It is a common practice to name people after places in India. This practice is prevalent among Telugu people too. Among places, Hills hold a special place since some of them have a popular local deity presiding over it. A few examples come to mind. Simhachalam / Simhadri, Bhadrachalam, Venkatachalam, Arunachalam etc., Achalam (అ-చలం) means something that does not move, A Hill.
Following similar pattern, “Shobhanaachalam”, translates as “Beautiful Hill” [Shobana = శోభన = beautiful/auspicious, achalam = అచలం = Hill].
Following similar pattern, “Shobhanaachalam”, translates as “Beautiful Hill” [Shobana = శోభన = beautiful/auspicious, achalam = అచలం = Hill].
Agiripalli - The hill, Shobanachalam is in a sleepy town of Agiripalli (Giri = Hill, Palli = Village), 25kms north of Vijayawada on the way to town of Nuzvid (నూజివీడు). In my lifetime, so far, I have passed by the Shobhanachalam few hundred times, while traveling between Vijayawada and Nuzvid. I have visited the hill and the temple on the hill, only once, around 1989-90. I have been thinking of visiting the place and it finally happened, recently.
Deity:
The presiding deity of the hill is “Vyaghra Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy”. Of all the avatars of Vishnu, The avatar of Narasimha is the most fierce. Many of the temples presided by Narasimha avatar are found in and around, Telugu speaking land. Ahobilam, Simhachalam, Vedadri, Mangalagiri, Antarvedi, Yadagiri gutta are some of them. The deity is in shape of “Bengal Tiger” [Vyaghra = Tiger], rather than a lion-head as usually represented at other temples.
Deity:
The presiding deity of the hill is “Vyaghra Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy”. Of all the avatars of Vishnu, The avatar of Narasimha is the most fierce. Many of the temples presided by Narasimha avatar are found in and around, Telugu speaking land. Ahobilam, Simhachalam, Vedadri, Mangalagiri, Antarvedi, Yadagiri gutta are some of them. The deity is in shape of “Bengal Tiger” [Vyaghra = Tiger], rather than a lion-head as usually represented at other temples.
The Trip:
I left Vijayawada around 4:30PM and caught a public transportation bus to Nuzvid via Agiripalli. You can catch one every half hour or so. It takes around 30-40 minutes to cover distance of 25km. I reached Agiripalli around 5:00PM. Bus stops very close near the foot of the Sobhanachalam hill.
The Temples: There are two temples. One by the base and another on the top of the hill. It was a 5-10min walk to base temple after getting down from the bus. The temple was still closed and a lone visitor was waiting it to be opened. I enquired with the resident priest who was living in the priest quarters within the compound. He said it is going to be opened shortly.
The Temples: There are two temples. One by the base and another on the top of the hill. It was a 5-10min walk to base temple after getting down from the bus. The temple was still closed and a lone visitor was waiting it to be opened. I enquired with the resident priest who was living in the priest quarters within the compound. He said it is going to be opened shortly.
Meanwhile, I decided to visit the temple on the top of the hill. I was told that temple is closed but can still see the deity through the iron grill door. It was a trek of approximately, 600 steps. Most of the steps had weeds growing through them indicating that not many people are walking over them. I wanted to be back before it gets too dark.
Multiple families of monkeys sprawled themselves on the steps and were relaxing and grooming. I was scared and ensured not to make eye contact. There were multiple small temples on the side of the steps in dilapidated state. I did not dare go into them though.
I huffed and puffed through the trek with multiple breaks. It probably took 30-40min. I was disheartened to see the dilapidated state of the temple on the top. The copper covering of Dwajasthamba was slightly peeled at the bottom exposing rotting wood inside. There was lot of graffiti and name carving on the walls of temple. There was some strange smell indicating lack of care. I peeped through the iron grill and paid my respects to the deities. Took some pictures of town from top.
There is a Sivalayam after another 100 step trek. I did not go there as it was getting darker. As I did my trek down, Monkeys did not even care to step out of the way. I just went around and did my best not to make eye contact. Couple of naughty ones did growl at me. By the time I returned to base, I was drenched in sweat. I guess, the monkey scare and sultry weather did not help either.
The temple at the bottom of the hill was open by that time with no visitors. I paid my respects to main deity Vyagra Lakshmi Narasimha and other deities: Venugopala Swamy, Goda devi, Rajarajeswari devi. As I left the temple, A monkey entered the temple to steal a coconut while the priest shooed it away and closed the door.
Politics and Funds:
As I waited for bus, I enquired around why the temple on the top was not maintained properly. Someone lamented that temple owns 1700 acres of land. Some of it was encroached upon. Most of the funds are not accounted for.
Later on, during discussion with family members, someone enlightened me. Historically, After the fall of Kings and Kingdoms, Temple ownership and care was done by a Zamindar (Zamindari - A land revenue collection system instituted by British). After British left, Indian political class has taken over. Most of the historical temples own several lands. It is not individual ownership. Think of it as an “institution” owning lands. Apparently, the lease on the lands of temple are auctioned off every year or few years for cultivation. Money from auction is deposited back to government and temple does not have any say on how the funds are utilized. Most of the time, the people who participate in auction form a nexus, sort of mafia, and do not let others to compete in. They ensure the auction is done for a paltry sum of money. I even got a figure of Rs. 75 ($1) for 1 acre of fisheries. For comparison, 1 acre of fisheries can probably produces few lakhs of income and a minimum Rs. 1 lakh ($1500) of annual profit. [Note: Take the numbers with a pinch of salt.]
The huge sums of money made from the temple lands is diverted for personal use and political clout. Next time, do notice that if some one is on a board of a temple and if they have political power. It will give you some insight. This could also explain why people in government would like strangle hold on Hindu temples.
Conclusion:
Though the stories of misappropriation of funds was depressing, It was a satisfying trip, overall. I had body aches for couple of days but it was well worth it.
The word “Shobanachalam” is quite popular in and around Agiripalli. I saw a cloth store in Vijayawada with that name. There is a blog by Venkata Ramana who hails from Agiripalli, http://Sobhanaachala.blogspot.com.
Next time you see the word “Shobanachalam” or “Sobhan babu” spare a thought to temple and town that have, definitely, seen better times.
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